Two swells on the horizon.

Surfed at JR. Had fun! The point was overhead and epic.

Here's what Sewers looked like at low tide:


Shoulda got some shots of the point, too. Oh well, Friday will also be sick.

Going out tomorrow!

Look at this swell! Dawn patrol is mission go.

Friday

Solo mission to 1st peak on a bright, busy Friday morning. Decent swell, a little texture/bump on the face. Rights and lefts were going off. Surfed some sweet rights to the beach. Saw Adam in the lineup. Drank a cold Lucky afterwards on the beach. Love this life!

Here's a picture Sam took at JR last Tuesday; I lent him my car to go grab a session while he was here on the Island. Looks like he scored:

Scott Toepfer

via a time to get

Wednesday

Surfed a beautiful, sunny, head high day at 1sts with Sam and Adam. Nice juicy waves, sick turns, perfect weather, no crowd. Just good friends and good vibes. Sam forgot his leash and surfed without it; every takeoff and pullout was dramatic and engrossing. Was he going to make it? Would he have to swim all the way into the boneyard to get his board?? In the end Sam shredded hard and didn't blow a single wave or duckdive, either at 1sts or in a second session at 2nds. Champion.

"Vancouver Island: Live the Pipe Dream"

...cuz you won't find many barrels like that here!