south island surf
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Friday
Solo mission to 1st peak on a bright, busy Friday morning. Decent swell, a little texture/bump on the face. Rights and lefts were going off. Surfed some sweet rights to the beach. Saw Adam in the lineup. Drank a cold Lucky afterwards on the beach. Love this life!
Here's a picture Sam took at JR last Tuesday; I lent him my car to go grab a session while he was here on the Island. Looks like he scored:
Thursday, March 4, 2010
Wednesday
Surfed a beautiful, sunny, head high day at 1sts with Sam and Adam. Nice juicy waves, sick turns, perfect weather, no crowd. Just good friends and good vibes. Sam forgot his leash and surfed without it; every takeoff and pullout was dramatic and engrossing. Was he going to make it? Would he have to swim all the way into the boneyard to get his board?? In the end Sam shredded hard and didn't blow a single wave or duckdive, either at 1sts or in a second session at 2nds. Champion.
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