Wednesday

Caught the last few bombs of yesterday's 18@18 swell, all alone at L3 (except for a sea lion). As you can see on the chart the main swell front passed yesterday, and I was just able to squeeze in a few sick rides before the tide dropped and the swell shut off completely. Nice waves, shoulder to head high. Felt like I rode well, executed good off the tops and cutbacks. Arrived at 12:30, split after an hour and a half to make it to class on time. The swell was flat by then anyhow.

I've probably had a dozen sessions since my last blog entry, but for some reason haven't felt like recording them. I'm sure at least half were decent sessions with good friends.