Solo mission to 1st peak on a bright, busy Friday morning. Decent swell, a little texture/bump on the face. Rights and lefts were going off. Surfed some sweet rights to the beach. Saw Adam in the lineup. Drank a cold Lucky afterwards on the beach. Love this life!
Here's a picture Sam took at JR last Tuesday; I lent him my car to go grab a session while he was here on the Island. Looks like he scored:
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