Surfed a beautiful, sunny, head high day at 1sts with Sam and Adam. Nice juicy waves, sick turns, perfect weather, no crowd. Just good friends and good vibes. Sam forgot his leash and surfed without it; every takeoff and pullout was dramatic and engrossing. Was he going to make it? Would he have to swim all the way into the boneyard to get his board?? In the end Sam shredded hard and didn't blow a single wave or duckdive, either at 1sts or in a second session at 2nds. Champion.
Thursday, March 4, 2010
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