Friday, September 11, 2009

Friday Mid-day

2nd peak
Surfed with Tyler from Hawaii. Sunny, light wind, head high sets. Three guys out when we got there, up to fifteen by the end.
Got dropped in on and tangled by an agro old guy, on an outside bomb. "That was MY peak," he says. "You paddled around!"
Whatever you say, old man. We both know who was in proper position. You and your new blue board are going to surfer pugatory, where you get stuffed on every wave till your debt is paid.

Planning to dawn patrol after work, maybe avoiding crowds.

-- Post From Taxi

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