Working tonight, but felt the need to go to the beach anyhow. A beautiful, sunny, head high afternoon at 2nds. Took the taxi to the beach; will start work around 8 instead of 4: worth it for a good surf. Feeling self-critical and melancholy, but at least surfing is a glorious distraction and physical expression.

Surfed last Saturday, too, but neglected to make a post. It was a big day at 2nds. Didn't surf my best, but enjoyed the experience of sizeable waves.