Monday, September 28, 2009

Surfari

A successful Surfari! Left Victoria at around 9:00, with Ish, Duncan, and Kalilah in my car, Serge, Kimmy, and Ty in another, and some other friends redez-vous-ing at the beach. Only four of us were interested in surf, and the rest went hiking and built a fire.

Surfed two sessions, 1st peak at mid-day, and 2nds in the evening. Mid-day was hard on-shore with lots of bump on the face. A frustrating session, with a weird tide. Chicken's was going off, however, as it will on a decent sized swell. In the late afternoon the wind slackened and I had a great session at 2nds, surfing sweet lefts and a few really steep rights. The wind turned to light, then glass, then offshore.

In the evening our large group cooked corn and veggies, beans and sausages, and pasta over the fire. We had a wonderful meal and watched the nearly perfect waves reel until after the sun had set.

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